Mortgage Calculator UK
Work out your monthly mortgage repayment, compare repayment against interest-only, and see exactly how much overpaying cuts the total interest over the life of the loan.
A UK mortgage repayment depends on three numbers: how much you borrow, the interest rate, and the term. Plug those in and the monthly figure appears instantly. But the monthly payment is the least interesting number a mortgage produces. The total interest is what costs you — and on a typical UK home loan it often exceeds the amount you borrowed in the first place. This calculator handles both repayment mortgages (where each payment chips away at the balance) and interest-only mortgages (where it doesn’t), and shows what happens when you overpay, when the rate moves, and when your fixed deal ends. If you want to know how much a lender will actually let you borrow, use the Mortgage Affordability Calculator instead.
Mortgage details
Fixed period and fees
Overpayment and affordability
Estimated mortgage payment
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Loan-to-value
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Total interest
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Overpayment saving
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Key mortgage terms explained
UK mortgages come with a thicket of jargon, much of it designed to sound more complicated than it is. The ten terms below cover what you’ll see on a mortgage illustration, in a broker conversation, and in the small print of your deal.
- Principal
- The amount you actually borrow — the property price minus your deposit. Interest is charged on the outstanding principal, so as a repayment mortgage chips it down, the interest portion of each payment shrinks. On a £300k home with a £30k deposit, the principal is £270,000.
- Loan-to-value LTV
- Your loan as a percentage of the property’s value. A £270k loan on a £300k home is 90% LTV. Lenders price in bands — typically 95%, 90%, 85%, 75% and 60% — and a lower LTV unlocks a cheaper rate. Crossing a band threshold with a slightly bigger deposit can save more than the deposit costs.
- Amortisation
- The process of repaying a loan through scheduled level payments, each split between interest and capital. Early payments are mostly interest; later payments are mostly capital. This front-loading is why overpaying in the early years removes far more total interest than overpaying later.
- Fixed rate
- A rate locked for a set period — usually two or five years in the UK. Your monthly payment can’t change during the fix, regardless of what the Bank of England does. When the fix ends you must remortgage or roll onto the standard variable rate. Buys certainty; you pay a small premium for it.
- Tracker rate
- A rate that follows the Bank of England base rate plus a fixed margin (for example, base + 0.75%). When the base rate rises, your payment rises; when it falls, you benefit immediately. A bet that rates will fall or stay flat — and a risk if they climb.
- Standard variable rate SVR
- The lender’s default rate, which you roll onto when a fixed or tracker deal ends. It’s set entirely at the lender’s discretion and is almost always the most expensive option. Lenders rely on customer inertia here — staying on the SVR is the single most common avoidable mortgage cost.
- APRC
- Annual Percentage Rate of Charge — a regulated figure showing the total yearly cost of the mortgage including fees, assuming you stay for the full term. Useful for comparing deals on a like-for-like basis, though it overstates real cost for anyone who remortgages every few years (which is most people).
- Early repayment charge ERC
- A penalty for overpaying beyond your annual allowance or clearing the mortgage during a fixed period — typically 1–5% of the balance repaid, tapering each year of the deal. Most fixes allow penalty-free overpayments of up to 10% of the balance per year; exceed that and the ERC bites.
- Equity
- The share of your home you actually own — the property’s value minus the outstanding mortgage. Equity grows as you repay capital and (sometimes) as the property rises in value. Building equity faster through overpayments improves your LTV at the next remortgage, unlocking better rates.
- Stress test
- Lenders must check you could still afford the mortgage if rates rose — a regulatory affordability rule. They model your payment at a rate well above the one you’re offered. This is why a lender might decline a loan you can comfortably afford at today’s rate: they’re testing it against a hypothetical higher rate, not the real one.
Five mistakes UK borrowers make on mortgages
These come from broker experience and the recurring threads on r/UKPersonalFinance. None are exotic — they’re the ordinary errors that quietly cost ordinary households thousands.
Choosing on monthly payment alone
Two mortgages with the same monthly cost can differ by tens of thousands in total interest, depending on term and rate. A 30-year mortgage feels cheaper than a 25-year one because the monthly figure is lower — but it can cost £40,000+ more over its life. Always read the monthly payment and the total interest together.
Cost: £40k+ in hidden interest Fix: compare total interest, not just monthlyDrifting onto the SVR when a deal ends
When a fixed or tracker deal expires, you roll onto the lender’s standard variable rate automatically — and it’s usually the most expensive rate they offer. Lenders don’t always remind you. A £210k balance left on an SVR a couple of points above market can cost £300–£400 a month more than a fresh remortgage. Set a calendar reminder three months before your deal ends.
Cost: £3,000–£5,000/yr on SVR Fix: start remortgaging 3 months before fix endsOverpaying past the 10% limit and triggering an ERC
Overpaying is one of the smartest things you can do — but most fixed deals cap penalty-free overpayments at 10% of the balance per year. Pay a large inheritance or bonus straight in and you can trigger an early repayment charge of 1–5%. On a £250k balance, a 3% ERC is £7,500. Check your annual allowance, and time lump sums for just after a deal anniversary or once the fix has ended.
Cost: up to £7,500 ERC on a lump sum Fix: check your 10% allowance before overpayingIgnoring the product fee when comparing rates
A headline rate of 4.6% with a £1,499 fee can be more expensive than a 4.8% rate with no fee, depending on your loan size. On smaller loans the fee dominates; on larger ones the rate does. Lenders advertise the eye-catching rate and bury the fee. Always model the true cost including fees over the deal period — the APRC helps, but the cleanest test is total cost over the two or five years you’ll actually hold the deal.
Cost: picking the wrong deal by £1,000s Fix: add fees to interest over the deal periodBuilding a budget around a rate that won’t last
A two-year fix gives you certainty for two years — not for the life of the mortgage. Households that stretch to the limit of affordability at a low fixed rate get caught when they remortgage into a higher-rate environment. A two-point rise on a £250k loan adds £305 a month. Stress-test your own budget the way a lender does: could you still afford the payment if your rate rose by two or three points at the next remortgage?
Cost: payment shock of £300+/mo at remortgage Fix: budget for a higher rate at deal expiryFrequently asked questions
How much can I borrow for a mortgage in the UK?
UK lenders typically cap borrowing at 4 to 4.5 times your annual income, though some go to 5x or more for higher earners or specific schemes. For a joint application, lenders use combined income. So a couple earning £70,000 between them might borrow around £315,000 — but the exact figure depends on outgoings, existing debt, and the lender’s affordability and stress-test rules.
This calculator works out the cost of a given loan, not the maximum you’ll be offered. For the borrowing limit, use the Mortgage Affordability Calculator, which factors in income, commitments, and the regulatory stress test.
What’s the difference between repayment and interest-only?
On a repayment mortgage, each monthly payment covers the interest plus a slice of the capital, so the balance falls steadily and the debt clears by the end of the term. On an interest-only mortgage, you pay only the interest — the balance never reduces, and the full loan is still owed at the end.
Interest-only has a lower monthly cost but leaves you needing to repay the whole loan from elsewhere — selling the property, an investment, or refinancing. UK lenders now require a credible repayment plan for residential interest-only. It remains common for buy-to-let, where the lower payment improves rental yield and the plan is usually to sell or remortgage.
What is loan-to-value (LTV) and why does it matter?
LTV is your loan as a percentage of the property’s value. A £270,000 loan on a £300,000 home is 90% LTV. It matters because lenders price risk in bands — the lower your LTV, the lower the rate they’ll offer, because they have more cushion if house prices fall.
The bands cluster around 95%, 90%, 85%, 75% and 60%. Pushing your deposit just over a threshold — from 89% to 85%, say — can move you into a cheaper rate tier that saves more over the term than the extra deposit cost you. It’s often the highest-return use of a few thousand extra pounds at the point of purchase.
Can I overpay my mortgage, and is it worth it?
Yes — most UK fixed deals allow penalty-free overpayments of up to 10% of the balance per year. Overpaying is one of the most powerful financial moves a homeowner can make, because every extra pound goes straight at the capital and removes all the future interest that pound would have generated.
On a £250,000 mortgage at 5%, overpaying £200 a month saves around £44,000 in interest and clears the loan roughly five years early. Because of front-loading, overpaying early is far more effective than overpaying late. Just check your deal’s annual limit first — exceed it and an early repayment charge applies.
What happens when my fixed-rate deal ends?
When a fixed deal expires, you automatically roll onto your lender’s standard variable rate (SVR) — almost always the most expensive option, set entirely at the lender’s discretion. Your monthly payment can jump sharply overnight.
The fix is to remortgage before the deal ends — either to a new product with your existing lender (a “product transfer”) or to a different lender. Start the process around three months before expiry, since applications take time. Drifting onto the SVR through inertia is the single most common avoidable mortgage cost in the UK.
How does the Bank of England base rate affect my mortgage?
The base rate is the floor that UK mortgage pricing is built on. If you’re on a tracker, your rate moves directly with it — base rate up means your payment up, usually within weeks. If you’re on a fixed rate, your payment is locked for the deal period regardless of what the base rate does, but the base rate at the time you remortgage will shape the new deal you’re offered.
This is why a single interest-rate decision in London ripples through millions of household budgets. A two-point change on a £250,000 mortgage is worth around £305 a month — material money for most families.
Do I have to pay Stamp Duty on top of my mortgage?
Stamp Duty Land Tax (SDLT) is separate from your mortgage — it’s a one-off tax on the purchase price, paid at completion, not borrowed as part of the loan (though some buyers add it to their deposit budget). The amount depends on the price, whether you’re a first-time buyer, and whether it’s an additional property.
You’ll need the cash available alongside your deposit. To work out the bill for your purchase, use the Stamp Duty Calculator — budgeting for it is one of the most commonly overlooked costs of buying.
Should I choose a fixed rate or a tracker?
It depends on your appetite for risk and your view on where rates are heading. A fixed rate buys certainty — your payment can’t move, which makes budgeting easy, but you pay a small premium and miss out if rates fall. A tracker follows the base rate, so you benefit immediately if rates drop, but your payment rises if they climb.
Most UK borrowers choose fixed for the certainty, especially first-time buyers and anyone stretched on affordability. Trackers suit borrowers with financial headroom who can absorb a rise and want to benefit from falling rates. There’s no universally right answer — it’s a trade-off between certainty and flexibility. This is a decision where impartial guidance from MoneyHelper or a regulated broker is worth seeking.
Related calculators
A mortgage sits at the centre of a cluster of home-buying decisions. These calculators handle the questions next to it.
Methodology & sources
How the maths works
The calculator uses the standard amortisation formula for repayment mortgages: the monthly payment is the principal multiplied by the monthly interest rate and a compounding factor based on the number of payments. For interest-only mortgages, the monthly payment is simply the principal multiplied by the monthly interest rate, with the full balance outstanding at the end of the term.
Overpayment scenarios are modelled by applying the extra payment to the capital each month and recalculating the remaining balance, which shortens the term and reduces total interest. Total interest is the sum of all payments minus the original principal. Figures assume a constant interest rate for the modelled period; in practice your rate will change at each remortgage.
UK rules and conventions used
- Repayment formula: standard amortising loan, monthly compounding
- Interest-only: payment = principal × monthly rate; capital unchanged
- LTV bands: rate tiers commonly at 95%, 90%, 85%, 75%, 60%
- Overpayment allowance: typically 10% of balance per year penalty-free
- Affordability: lenders typically cap at 4–4.5× income (varies)
- Stress test: lenders model affordability at a rate above the offered rate
- Rates shown in tables are illustrative ranges, not live market rates